Let’s talk green! March 17th brings us St. Patrick’s Day, a green day. The north coastal region of Portugal is colored by dense green foliage and grape vines. One of the most popular wines from this region comes from the Vinho Verde denomination of origin controlada (DOC), which is a legally defined geographical
classification. The name means "green wine," but translates as "young wine,” meaning the wine is released three to six months after harvest.
Since we are focused on green, let’s talk about the most common Vinho Verde white wine. This wine is made from either all Alvarinho grapes (Alberaio in Spain’s Galicia region to the north) or often a blend of two grape varieties: Alvarinho and Loureiro.
Vinho Verde DOC is one of the largest and oldest wine regions in the world. Home to thousands of producers who make white, red and rosé wine from a wide variety of grapes. In the northern region of the DOC the major river valley is the Minho. On its northern bank, Spanish producers grow Albariño. On the southern bank, the Portuguese cultivate Alvarinho. It’s the same grape, but there’s more difference between the expressions than just spelling.
Alvarinho is grown throughout the Vinho Verde appellation, but the Minho Valley is considered its true home. It’s the only part of the Vinho Verde DOC where producers can make wines exclusively from Alvarinho and label them as such.
Alvarinho often displays bright, crisp acidity with aromas of grapefruit, peach and floral notes. Loureiro offers hints of lime, orange, and acacia blossom, with the fruitiness of orange and peach. These two grape varieties when expertly blended are the perfect match.
Vinho Verde wine may have a subtle hint of effervescent bubbles. In the past it was from incomplete fermentation prior to bottling and the resulting secondary fermentation taking place in the bottle. Most Vinho Verde today has been made with modern technology and technique and winemakers add a bit of carbon dioxide to keep the tingle of bubbles and mouthfeel freshness.
As a younger generation of winemakers takes the helm, you might find some distinct differences in Vinho Verde. These enthusiastic young producers offer wines that are dry, yet maintain the fruit and mineralogy of the region. Some are experimenting with the judicious use of oak on small lots, and many have incorporated the use of concrete vats and egg-shaped vessels. The future for Portuguese white wine from
the region looks bright.
Vinho Verde is light-bodied, low in alcohol, refreshing and food friendly, yet often overlooked. Instead of green beer this year, pick up a little green wine from Portugal and your celebration will bring you the luck of the Irish.
Guy Bower is host of The Good Life radio show airing every Saturday, 12–1 p.m. on 98.7/1330 KNSS, featuring special guests, book reviews and a wine of the week.
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